Ihr Warenkorb ist leer
Ihr Warenkorb ist leerGM 15055343 Standheizungseinlassschlauch, T-Anschluss
s
Bewertet in den USA am20. Januar 2025
I screwed around with import junk and d$%#@n, they all didn't work. Shoulda saved myself the hassle and paid a little more to begin with
Customer
Bewertet in den USA am10. Dezember 2024
Purchased for 2012 suburban after I cracked the old one while putting the engine top cover back on. Ended up buying knockoff one at local parts store because I couldn’t wait. Some reviews of the local one I bought said that the knockoff one was probes to failure so didn’t cancel this one. It’s in the glove box in case I ever need it. Was easy to install, despite my concern that it would be difficult.
Woodmeister
Bewertet in den USA am6. August 2023
The aftermarket parts for this are terrible, leak, can't remove easily once installed. Buy original equipment for this repair, spend the few extra bucks it costs, it is worth the aggravation you are saving. Easy install and don't leak. Leave assembly together when installing, don't remove the plastic clip in piece and put it on the hard lines, just click them on to the hard lines assembled. Click the smaller rear heater core lines first, then click the assembly to the front heater core. Works great. If they last as long as the original it will be another 20 years before replacement again. The aftermarket ones fail in no time. Best advice I can give, been there, done that.
Customer
Bewertet in den USA am18. November 2022
GM part. Perfect fit. Worth the extra cost if you are keeping the vehicle.
Customer
Bewertet in den USA am29. Januar 2019
This is the WHITE connector (which is for the return line from the Suburban's 2 heater cores back to the engine) not the BLACK connector (which is the supply line). Remove the forward-most junction first (closest to the front of the car, which is made easier by using the plastic collar tool which I bought at an auto parts store), then the one closest to the firewall next, and then that smaller line that goes down to the rear heater core aluminum pipe last. Install in reverse order. If you get a pair of "hose clamp pliers" to really pinch the ears on the firewall junction, and wiggle it forward and back while you compress the ears, it comes off relatively easily. It fits perfectly and there are no leaks. I used a little silicone grease (which is compatible with plastic parts and rubber O-rings) to make the connection snug and leak-proof. Also, if you buy the part, but are unable to get it off, don't despair. You can go to a professional mechanic and hand him the part so that the professional can do the swap-out.Tip: You will be laying across the engine as you do this. To prevent damaging engine parts, I built a temporary belly-board that went from the left to right sides of the engine so I could be up close and have good visibility to that dang firewall connection, which has almost no room to work.Comment: This connection mates three different pipe sizes together with a connection geometry that is pretty difficult to take apart and re-assemble. I'm pretty sure that unnecessarily cruel designs like this were outlawed by the Geneva Convention and nobody uses this design anymore except for GM and North Korea, both of whom I think must have refused to sign the treaty.
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